When dealing with 0.125 A, do not care about wire cross-section. Mechanical properties are more important. Select the electric cable like a rope: take it into hands and try to judge whether it can withstand the pulling and the wearing by friction with halyards. If it can, than it will have ...

One more comment to this. If your engine needs to be replaced by a new one in the future, you should consider using a smaller one which is easier to handle. I have tried 5 HP, 8 HP and 4 HP engines at my IF. I was usually running 5 HP engine at 3/4 of throttle, 8 HP at 1/2 and 4 HP at full throttle ...

Hi Bjorn,
only one technical hint: when sailing in strong wind and big waves in Norway, several brass screws which fix the interior plywood desks to the ribs broke down because of the strong tensions in the hull. I repaired it by screwing stainless steel wood screws near the original brass ones.
David

Only a small comment to the required power: I think that more than 10 hp is not reasonable. According to my opinion 5 hp is enough. I used 5 hp outboard engine. Later I changed to 8 hp outboard, but I run it at halve the power with the advantage that it is not so noisy. You can look at this engine ...

Hello Marek! No, no, this is not the case. I want to stay for periods of one week at some natural anchorages without visiting any harbor. The water installation with pump and sink is already installed in my boat. I only want to replace the flexible tank by a rigid one.

Dear colleagues, I want to install a triangular rigid plastic water tank under the berth into tho bow cabin. Can anybody recommend a type which fits there? Can, for example, some of Cipax type fit there (www.cipax.com)? I used flexible water tank at this place, but it has shown not to be a good idea ...

I am using in-hull depth transducer at my IF. It works very well. It takes some time to install it, but the advantage of having no additional hole in the hull is significant, I think. You have to find a suitable location for it where the fiberglas is transparent enough for the sound. Do it by ...

Hi Paul, I have chosen IF boat as my first boat two years ago. According to my sailing experience in the Baltic and partly North Sea this summer, the choice was quite good. To be more specific I am very, very satisfied with the shape of the hull and the behavior of the boat during sailing. On the ...

I am having the same problem. Although the outboard engine is quite good at lakes, it has shown to be a total nonsense at raw open sea. What about using some Z-drive with engine either under the cockpit or at the place where the outboard engine is originally located? Does anybody have some idea or ...

Yes, you are right. But it is possible to adjust such a length of the topping lift, that it is free when sailing in all conditions. When the main sail is down, the boom is slightly lower than horizontal, so you have to be careful about your head :-). But it is acceptable as a basic setting which ...

Although this engine fits into IF-boat mechanically, I can not recommend it. The new engine I have bought did not work. During several hours of trials, it started ones, but no more. They probably do not test them in the factory! It took a lot of my time until we were able (with the help of ...

This is interesting solution. Thanks for the photos. I have just made the simplest topping lift: riveted an eye some 3 cm below the top of the mast at left side (close to the attachment of the back stay) with small roller. The line is fixed at the cleat at the left side of the mast, some 1 m above ...

Thanks to both. I will mount the second kind of cleats (shown at the link from Johan). They are not so quick for operation, but universal and robust. And I have just bought discounted ones :-).

Could somebody send me a photo of the original jib sheet cleats at IF-boat from 1976? What is the exact distance of the holes for screws? Is it possible to buy such cleats somewhere? I prefer to use the original holes covered under the unsuitable new cleats at my IF, not to drill new ones. Thank you ...

The handle has to be positioned oblique down (in front direction). It is not necessary to remove it. But you have to put your hand very deep to reach it. The other possibility is to cut the handle. As I investigate it, it could be done. But in this case you have to cut the casted piece forming the ...